How to Sew an Invisible Zipper with a Regular Zipper Foot!, by WonderFil Specialty Threads on YouTube. 5 min 29 s.
- Video length
- 5 min 29 s
- Time to do it
- 20 minutes
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Steps
- 9
What you need
Steps
Finish the seam allowances on both edges of the opening with a zigzag or overlock stitch, then press them flat.
Press the zipper coils flat with a warm, dry iron so the teeth open out and lie flat against the tape.
Mark the seam line on the wrong side of the fabric with chalk or a fabric marker, following the seam allowance on your pattern.
Open the zipper and place it face down on the right side of the fabric, lining the coil edge up with the marked seam line. Pin it in place.
Fit the regular zipper foot and move the needle to the left position so the foot can sit close to the coil.
Stitch from the top of the tape down to the slider, keeping the needle close to the teeth and backstitching at both ends.
Zip up and check the result. The zipper should sit hidden in the seam. Unpick and re-pin if the fabric ripples or the tape shows.
Pin the rest of the seam closed below the zipper, then stitch from the bottom of the zipper to the hem, meeting your zipper stitching line.
Press the seam and the zipper tape with a pressing cloth and no steam so the coils do not melt.
Tips and common mistakes
Sew a test run on scrap fabric first to find the needle position that sits closest to the coil without catching it.
Use a zipper a little longer than the opening so you have room to work, then shorten it at the top.
Pull the zipper tape gently as you sew so it does not pucker the garment.
Never sew over pins. Pull them out as the needle reaches them.
Questions
Can I sew an invisible zipper without an invisible zipper foot?
Yes. A regular zipper foot works when you move the needle position and stitch close to the coil. The finish may be slightly less neat than with a dedicated invisible foot.
Why is my invisible zipper showing?
The stitching line is usually too far from the coil. Stitch closer to the teeth and press the coils flat before sewing.
What length zipper do I need?
Choose one at least as long as your opening, plus a few centimetres. You can shorten a longer zipper at the top after sewing.
This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.
