How to Sew an Invisible Zipper into a Stretch Catsuit or Leotard with a Collar #sewing #zippersewing, by Katkow Sewing Patterns on YouTube. 1 min 33 s.
- Video length
- 1 min 33 s
- Time to do it
- 30 minutes
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Steps
- 9
What you need
Steps
Measure the center back from collar to waist and buy an invisible zipper at least that long. Pick a tape colour that matches your fabric.
Fuse a 2 cm (3/4 inch) strip of knit interfacing along both zipper opening edges on the wrong side. This stops the spandex stretching as you sew.
Mark the seam line and the zipper stop on the wrong side. Baste the seam closed below the stop with a long straight stitch so the fabric stays aligned.
Press the zipper coils flat with a cool iron to open them up. Keep the iron moving and do not drag it over the teeth.
Lay the garment right side up and place the zipper face down along one opening, with the coil on the seam line. Pin or clip the tape flat.
Fit the invisible zipper foot and stitch down the right side of the coil, close to the teeth. Stop at the zipper stop and backstitch.
Close the zipper and mark where the second tape sits. Pin it, then sew the left side the same way, matching notches and the waist seam.
Swap to a regular zipper foot and sew the rest of the center back seam below the zipper with a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch.
Trim the threads, press the seam from the inside, and open and close the zip a few times. The fabric should lie flat with no ripples.
Tips and common mistakes
Sew a test zip into a scrap of the same spandex first to check stitch length and tension.
Use a stretch or ballpoint needle, size 75/11, and change it for each new project so it does not snag the knit.
Do not pull the fabric as you sew. Let the feed dogs move it or the seam will wave.
Keep your fingers clear of the needle and unplug the machine before you change the needle.
Questions
Do I need a special invisible zipper foot?
A standard foot can work, but the invisible foot holds the coil open and lets you stitch closer to the teeth. That is what gives the hidden finish.
Can I use a regular zipper on stretch fabric?
Yes, but the teeth will show on the outside. An invisible zipper keeps the center back looking like a plain seam.
Why is my zipper puckering?
The fabric probably stretched while you sewed or the opening was not stabilized. Fuse knit interfacing to the edges and sew slowly without tugging.
This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.
