How To Sew An Invisible Zipper Into A Dress With A Lining!, by Sew Anastasia on YouTube. 11 min 33 s.
- Video length
- 11 min 33 s
- Time to do it
- 1 hour
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Steps
- 8
What you need
Steps
Unpick the old zipper with a seam ripper and press the seam flat. Keep the lining and the outer fabric separate so you can reach both seam allowances.
Open the seam to the full length of the zipper plus the pull, then backstitch at the bottom so the seam does not split further.
Press the zipper coils flat with a warm iron so the teeth lie open. Do not press directly on the metal or plastic with a hot iron.
Pin the zipper face down on the right side of the outer fabric. Line the coil up with the seam line, about 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) from the raw edge.
Fit the invisible zipper foot and sew down one side, stitching as close to the coil as you can without catching the teeth.
Zip up and check the join, then sew the other side the same way. Keep the two sides level at the top so the waistline matches.
Fold the lining out of the way and stitch the lining to the zipper tape by hand with small slip stitches, or by machine close to the tape edge.
Press the seam, test the zip a few times, and trim any loose threads. Check the top and bottom stops sit where you want them.
Tips and common mistakes
Sew slowly near the coil and stop to lift the foot if the fabric pulls.
Leave the zipper pull out of the way before you stitch past it, or you will sew over it.
Always test the zip before you attach the lining so you can fix the seam easily.
Use a strip of interfacing behind the top of the zip to stop the fabric stretching.
Questions
Do I really need an invisible zipper foot?
It makes the job much easier because the grooves hold the coil open while you stitch close to it. A standard zipper foot can work, but the seam will not sit as flat.
How do I stop the zipper showing at the top of the dress?
Line the top stops up with the neckline or waistline before you pin, and check the fit with the zip closed. Small hand stitches at the top will hold the tape in place.
Can I sew the lining in by machine?
Yes. Stitch the lining to the zipper tape by machine, keeping the needle close to the tape edge and the outer fabric clear of the foot.
This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.
