I Made Every Motorcycle Oil Change Mistake So You Don't Have To!, by RideWithRea on YouTube. 6 min 15 s.
- Video length
- 6 min 15 s
- Time to do it
- 30 minutes
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Steps
- 10
What you need
Steps
Lay out your parts first: the correct motorcycle oil, a new filter, a fresh filter O-ring and a new crush washer for the drain bolt. Check the owner's manual for the exact oil grade and torque figures.
Warm the engine for a couple of minutes, then switch it off. Warm oil drains faster and carries more dirt out with it. Park on level ground and hold the bike upright and secure.
Set the drain pan under the sump and loosen the drain bolt with the 12mm socket. Keep light pressure on the bolt as the last threads come out so the oil does not surge over your hand.
Let the oil drain completely, then remove the old filter. Check that the old rubber gasket came away with it. A gasket stuck to the engine will leak on the new filter.
Wipe the filter mating surface clean, rub fresh oil on the new filter's O-ring, and spin the filter on by hand only. Stop when the rubber touches the housing, then tighten as your manual states.
Fit a new crush washer, thread the drain bolt in by hand first, then torque it to spec with the torque wrench. Hand threading prevents cross threading and stripped threads.
Pour in most of the stated capacity through a clean funnel, then check the level with the bike fully upright and level. Add in small amounts until it sits at the mark. Capacity numbers are a guide, not a rule.
Run the engine for a minute, switch off and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle. Check the level again and look under the bike for drips at the drain bolt and filter.
Wipe any oil off the exhaust pipes straight away, before the engine heats them. Oil burns onto hot metal and leaves a stain that is hard to remove.
Pour the used oil into a sealed container and take it to a recycling centre. Note the date and mileage in a maintenance log so you know when the next change is due.
Tips and common mistakes
Never over-tighten the drain bolt or filter, since crushing the washer or O-ring causes leaks.
Do the job indoors or on a calm day, as wind blows oil spray and grit onto fresh surfaces.
Avoid fluffy rags and dirty funnels, because lint and grit can end up in the oil galleries.
Buy two bottles of oil so you are not caught short mid-fill on a bike that takes more than expected.
Questions
Do I really need a new crush washer every time?
Yes. The crush washer deforms to seal once, and reusing it is a common cause of slow drips from the drain bolt. They cost very little, so keep a few spare.
How do I know how much oil to pour in?
Use the manual figure as a starting point only. Fill to just under it, then top up in small amounts until the dipstick or sight glass reads correct with the bike upright.
Can I use car oil in my motorcycle?
No. Use oil rated for motorcycles, especially if your bike has a wet clutch, because car oils with friction modifiers can make the clutch slip.
This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.
