How to sew an invisible zipper on a skort

You will fit an invisible zipper into the side or back seam of a skort so the teeth stay hidden and only the pull shows at the waistband. It suits sewists who can already sew a straight seam and want a clean closure on shorts with a built-in lining. An invisible zipper foot makes the job much easier.

How to Sew an Invisible Zipper on a Skort #versatilesewin #sewing #sewinghacks #versatilesewin, by Clara Threads on YouTube. 1 min 10 s.

Video length
1 min 10 s
Time to do it
45 minutes
Difficulty
Medium
Steps
10

What you need

Steps

  1. Pick an invisible zipper about an inch shorter than the opening. Decide whether it goes in the left side seam or the center back seam of the skort.

  2. Finish the raw edges of that seam allowance with a zigzag stitch or overlocker so the fabric does not fray once the zip is in.

  3. Open the zipper and press the tape flat with a warm iron, keeping the iron off the plastic coils. This makes the teeth easier to stitch beside.

  4. Mark the seam line on both fabric pieces. Mark where the zipper stop should sit, about 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) below the top edge for the waistband.

  5. Lay the right side of the open zipper on the right side of one fabric piece, with the coil edge on the seam line and the stop on your mark. Pin or clip in place.

  6. Fit the invisible zipper foot, lower the needle into the tape and stitch from the top down, keeping the needle as close to the coils as you can. Backstitch at the start.

  7. Close the zipper and check the placement. If fabric is caught in the teeth, unpick that section and stitch again before going further.

  8. Pin the other side of the zipper to the second fabric piece, matching any horizontal seams, and stitch it the same way.

  9. Sew the rest of the seam below the zipper with a regular zipper foot. Start at the base of the zip and overlap two or three stitches so no gap shows.

  10. Press the seam open from the wrong side, then attach the waistband and the built-in shorts as your pattern directs.

Tips and common mistakes

Sew a test zip into scrap fabric first, so you learn where your machine needs the needle to sit.

Fuse a strip of interfacing along the seam line to stop the fabric stretching as you stitch.

Sew slowly near the zipper pull and stop with the needle down to lift the foot and adjust.

Do not iron directly over closed plastic coils, or they will melt and the zip will jam.

Questions

Do I need a special zipper foot?

An invisible zipper foot has grooves underneath that hold the coils open while you stitch. You can use a regular zipper foot, but the stitching line will not sit as close to the teeth.

Can I shorten a zipper that is too long?

Yes. Sew a bar tack across the coils at the length you need, then cut the excess tape below it and pull off the extra teeth.

Where should the zipper go on a skort?

Most patterns put it in the left side seam or the center back seam. Follow your pattern, and check that the opening is long enough to pull the skort over your hips.

This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.

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