Master Sewing: Invisible Zipper & Welt Cord Techniques with Donna Cash | Creative Sewing Guide, by Designs By Donna on YouTube. 8 min 36 s.
- Video length
- 8 min 36 s
- Time to do it
- 30 minutes
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Steps
- 8
What you need
Steps
Cut your fabric pieces and a bias strip about 1 1/2 inches wide for the welt cord. Wrap the strip around the cord with the raw edges together.
Stitch along the welt with a zipper foot, keeping the needle close to the cord. Trim the seam allowance to about 1/2 inch so the welt sits flat.
Press the invisible zipper coils open with a warm, dry iron so the teeth lie flat. Do not use steam on the zipper tape.
Mark the seam line on your fabric. Place the zipper face down on the right side, line the coil edge up with the seam line, and pin or clip it.
Sew the zipper with an invisible zipper foot, stitching close to the coil and stopping at the pull tab. Backstitch at both ends.
Lay the welt cord beside the zipper with its stitching line on the seam line. Baste it in place by hand or machine.
Attach the other side of the zipper to the second fabric piece the same way. Close the zipper to check the welt sits right beside the teeth.
Sew the final seam through the welt and zipper tape with a zipper foot, then press and trim the seam allowance.
Tips and common mistakes
Test the needle position on a scrap of fabric before you sew the real zipper.
Press the zipper coils flat first, or the stitching will come out wavy.
Keep the welt cord clear of the zipper stitching line or the zipper will catch it.
Use the same 1/2 inch seam allowance on both sides so the seam lines up.
Questions
Can I use a regular zipper foot instead of an invisible zipper foot?
Yes, but an invisible zipper foot holds the coils open and gives a neater, more hidden finish. A standard foot works if you sew slowly and keep the coil rolled back.
How do I stop the zipper from catching the welt cord?
Baste the welt in place first and stitch just beside the cord, not over it. Open and close the zipper before the final seam to check the fit.
What if my zipper is longer than the opening?
Sew across the coils a few times just above the length you need, then cut below that line. The extra teeth will not pass the new stop.
This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.
