How to sew an invisible zipper into a skirt or dress seam

Learn to insert an invisible zipper so the teeth hide inside the seam and the join looks clean. This method suits skirt side seams, dress centre backs and fitted tops. You need a sewing machine, an invisible zipper and a zipper foot; a scrap piece helps you practise first.

Super INVISIBLE ZIPPER: easy & neat method. Fun sewing tutorial :) Ft Encore skirt (Love Notions), by Lifting Pins and Needles on YouTube. 16 min 41 s.

Video length
16 min 41 s
Time to do it
20 minutes
Difficulty
Medium
Steps
8

What you need

Steps

  1. Press the zipper coils flat and unzip the zipper. Place it face down on the right side of one fabric piece, lining the coil up with the seam line and using your pattern seam allowance.

  2. Fit an invisible zipper foot, or a regular zipper foot, and set the stitch length to about 2.5 mm. Stitch down one side close to the coil, stopping at the bottom stop.

  3. Close the zipper and check the alignment. Pin or baste the second side, matching the seam lines and any notches on both fabric pieces.

  4. Open the zipper again. Place the second tape face down on the other fabric piece, align the coil with the seam line, and stitch close to the coil.

  5. Zip up and check that the seam lines meet and the fabric lies flat. Fix any mismatch with a seam ripper before final sewing.

  6. Change to a regular zipper foot. Sew the rest of the seam from the bottom of the zipper to the hem, using your pattern seam allowance.

  7. Press the seam allowances and zipper tape flat, but do not press directly over the zipper coils. Finish the raw seam edges as your pattern directs.

  8. Zip the garment up and down a few times to test the join. Trim any loose threads and press the surrounding seam once more.

Tips and common mistakes

Practise on a scrap of the same fabric first so you can adjust the needle position before sewing the garment.

Baste the zipper in place before final stitching; it is easier to remove than machine stitches if the sides do not match.

Keep fingers clear of the needle, and unplug the machine before changing the foot or needle.

Use the seam allowance printed on your pattern; many garment patterns use 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).

Questions

Can I use a regular zipper foot instead of an invisible zipper foot?

Yes. A regular zipper foot works, but an invisible zipper foot has grooves that hold the coil upright and make it easier to stitch close to the teeth.

How do I stop the zipper from puckering?

Baste both sides first, close the zipper, and check that the seam lines meet. Sew slowly close to the coil and avoid stretching the fabric as you stitch.

What seam allowance should I use?

Use the seam allowance printed on your sewing pattern. Many garment patterns use 5/8 inch (1.5 cm), but check your pattern before you start.

This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.

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