How to Sew the Yoke of a Shirt, by Cornelius Quiring on YouTube. 1 min.
- Video length
- 1 min
- Time to do it
- 45 minutes
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Steps
- 10
What you need
Steps
Cut an outer yoke and an inner yoke from your pattern, plus the shirt back. Staystitch the back neckline about 1 cm from the raw edge so it does not stretch.
Place the outer yoke right side down on the shirt back, right side up. Match the neckline and armhole edges and pin along the yoke seam line.
Sew the seam with a 1.5 cm allowance. Press the seam allowance up toward the yoke, not down toward the body of the shirt.
Lay the inner yoke right sides together with the outer yoke, matching all edges. Pin around the neckline only, leaving the shoulder edges open.
Sew the neckline seam with a 1.5 cm allowance. Clip the curve every 1 cm, stopping just short of the stitching so you do not cut through it.
Turn the inner yoke through the neck opening so it lies wrong side down on the shirt back. Poke the corners out with a point turner, then press the neckline flat.
Tuck the lower raw edges of both yokes inside and pin them together so they sit exactly on the first seam line.
Topstitch 3 mm from the seam through all layers, or stitch in the ditch along the seam line. Backstitch at both ends.
Pin the shirt fronts to the yokes at the shoulders, right sides together, and sew with a 1.5 cm allowance. Finish the seam and press it open.
Check the yoke from the right side. Both layers should lie flat with no puckers, and the shoulder seams should line up front to back.
Tips and common mistakes
Press every seam as you sew it; a crisp press does more for a shirt yoke than any other step.
Clip the neckline curve before turning so the seam sits flat instead of pulling tight.
Use a slightly shorter stitch length on the topstitching so the line looks even and holds firm.
Sew a few centimetres, then check the underside before continuing, so you do not catch the shirt body in the seam.
Questions
What is a shirt yoke for?
It adds a double layer of fabric across the shoulders, which strengthens the back of the shirt and gives a neat finish inside. It also hides the shoulder seam allowances.
Can I make a single-layer yoke instead?
Yes, but you then need to finish the inside seam with a French seam, flat-felled seam or bias binding. The two-piece method is easier for beginners because the raw edges are enclosed.
Do I have to topstitch the yoke?
No, but topstitching keeps the inner yoke from shifting and gives the classic shirt look. Stitch in the ditch if you prefer the seam to stay hidden.
This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.
