How to insert an invisible zipper in a skirt waistband

You will sew an invisible zipper into a skirt or dress waistband so the teeth disappear into the seam and only a slim line shows. It suits confident beginners who can already sew a straight seam. You need an invisible zipper, an invisible zipper foot and a warm iron.

HOW TO insert invisible zipper perfectly! STEP-BY-STEP tutorial, by Thoughtful Creativity - CRAFT, SEW, DIY on YouTube. 10 min 29 s.

Video length
10 min 29 s
Time to do it
30 minutes
Difficulty
Medium
Steps
9

What you need

Steps

  1. Finish the raw edges of the zipper opening and press the seam allowances flat. Mark the seam line on the wrong side with a washable marker so you have a guide to follow.

  2. Press the zipper coils open with a warm, dry iron. Hold the tape flat and open the teeth so they lie straight, which lets the needle get right up against the coil.

  3. Place the zipper face down on the right side of the fabric. Line the coil up with your marked seam line and pin or baste the tape in place.

  4. Fit the invisible zipper foot and stitch from the top edge down as close to the coil as you can. Stop just above the pull and backstitch a couple of stitches.

  5. Close the zipper and check that the top edges sit level. If one side is higher, unpick and adjust before you sew the second side.

  6. Pin the other tape to the opposite side, matching the waist edge and any notches. Stitch it the same way, again hugging the coil.

  7. Zip it up and look at the join. If the fabric ripples, unpick and sew slightly further from the coil.

  8. Sew the rest of the seam below the zipper with a regular foot. Start at the end of the zipper stitching and overlap a few stitches so no gap shows.

  9. Press the seam from the wrong side and add a hook and eye at the waistband if your pattern calls for one.

Tips and common mistakes

Fuse interfacing to the waistband before you start, since it stops the fabric stretching out of shape around the zipper.

Baste the zipper by hand first; it takes two minutes and saves you unpicking machine stitches.

Use a zipper that is a little longer than the opening and shorten it, so the pull sits above the waist edge while you sew.

Questions

Do I really need an invisible zipper foot?

It helps a lot. The foot has grooves underneath that hold the coils open and push them aside as you sew, so you can stitch right next to the teeth. A regular zipper foot works but the result is rarely as neat.

Why does my invisible zipper show from the right side?

You probably sewed too far from the coil, or the teeth were not pressed open before stitching. Try again with the coil pressed flat and the needle closer to the teeth.

Can I use this method on a dress or a cushion?

Yes. The same steps work anywhere you want a hidden zip, including dress backs, cushion covers and bags. Just match the zipper length to your opening.

This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.

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