How to insert and invisible zip - Laurens top sewing tips - Part 10.1, by Lauren Guthrie on YouTube. 12 min 6 s.
- Video length
- 12 min 6 s
- Time to do it
- 30 minutes
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Steps
- 7
What you need
Steps
Finish the raw edges of your seam allowances, then press the seam flat. Mark the seam line on the wrong side of the fabric and open the zip.
Place the open zip face down on the right side of one fabric piece. Line the zipper teeth up with the marked seam line and pin or baste the tape in place.
Fit the invisible zip foot to your machine. Set a straight stitch about 2.5 mm long and lower the needle into the zipper tape at the top.
Sew down one side with the coil sitting in the groove under the foot. Stop before the pull tab, backstitch, and remove the pins as you go.
Close the zip and check that the seam lines match. Pin the other side of the zip to the second fabric piece, aligning the teeth with the seam line.
Sew the second side the same way, starting at the top. Keep the needle close to the coil so the stitching hides under the fold.
Sew the rest of the seam below the zip, starting at the zip end and backstitching. Press the seam and zip from the wrong side, avoiding the teeth.
Tips and common mistakes
Baste the zip by hand before machine sewing; it stops the tape shifting.
If the teeth show, move the needle a little closer to the coil and test on scrap fabric.
Unplug the machine before changing the foot and keep your fingers clear of the needle.
Questions
Do I need a special presser foot?
Yes, an invisible zip foot has grooves that hold the coil upright so the needle sews close to it. A standard zip foot will not hide the teeth as neatly.
Should I sew both sides of the zip at once?
No. Sew one side, close the zip, then match the seam and sew the second side. This lets you correct any mismatch.
What stitch length should I use?
About 2.5 mm straight stitch is a good starting point. Test on scrap fabric first.
This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.
