Learn to Sew – Inserting an Invisible Zip, by Minerva on YouTube. 18 min 29 s.
- Video length
- 18 min 29 s
- Time to do it
- 20 minutes
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Steps
- 8
What you need
Steps
Finish the seam allowances on both edges where the zip will sit, then press them flat. Hold the zip against the opening to check it is the right length.
Mark the zip opening on the fabric with chalk or a washable pen, following the pattern notch. Make the opening about 2 cm longer than the zip teeth so the slider clears the seam.
Open the zip and lay it face down on the right side of one fabric edge. Line the teeth up with the marked seam line and pin through the tape, keeping pins away from the teeth.
Hand baste the zip tape to the fabric with a running stitch about 3 to 4 mm from the edge. Basting stops the tape shifting when you sew.
Fit a zipper foot to your machine. Sew along the basted line, as close to the teeth as the foot allows, and stop with the needle down at the end of the opening.
Close the zip and check that the tape lies flat and the seam lines match. If it sits wrong, unpick and re-pin before you sew the second side.
Pin and baste the other side of the zip to the second fabric edge, matching the seam line and any pattern. Sew from the top down, close to the teeth.
Pull out the basting stitches. Press the seam with the zip closed, using a pressing cloth and a cool iron over the zip tape.
Tips and common mistakes
Use a zipper foot so you can stitch right next to the teeth without catching them.
Do not sew over the zip teeth or the slider, or the needle will break.
Press the tape with a cool iron and a cloth, because a hot iron can melt the zip.
Sew a test zip on scrap fabric first to check your seam allowance and foot position.
Questions
Do I need a special zipper foot?
Yes, an invisible zip foot or a standard zipper foot lets you stitch close to the teeth. A normal presser foot makes it hard to get a neat line.
Can I skip the basting step?
You can, but the tape often slips. Basting by hand takes a few minutes and keeps the zip straight, which matters most on a curved seam.
What length zip should I buy?
Measure the opening on your pattern and pick a zip the same length or slightly longer. You can shorten a zip at the top if needed.
This guide was drafted from the video's details and general task knowledge. It has not been checked against the full video. Check the video and relevant product instructions before following a procedure. Report a correction.
